When one is dedicated to surfing at a wave like Nazaré, taking a beating is inevitable. It’s not an if, but a when—and when the time comes that your number gets called, it’s likely to be one of the worst beatings in one’s surfing career.
Take this footage for example, when Thiago Jacaré, 35, from Brazil, riding a huge wave in Praia do Norte beach, Nazaré, Portugal, suddenly losing his balance and falling into the ocean. Mr Jacaré, who is an experience big wave surfer, is immediately swallowed by a mass of churning white waves and disappears out of sight for several seconds.
